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Hints for big-wall climbing in Yosemite
Compiled by Q.-Tuan Luong for The Yosemite
Rock Page
This article points to some big-wall climbing hints for
begining and intermediate climbers. See also
general practical information and
hints on free-climbing.
Technical tips
Suggested routes
These routes go basically clean with the fixed gear.
The classic progression is South Face of Washington Column,
Half-Dome, the Nose.
- South Face, Washington's Column V, 5.9,A2: the easiest and
most popular grade V.
- The Prow V, 5.9, A2: technically a bit more
difficult. portaledge useful.
- Leaning Tower V, 5.7, A2: easier but very overhanging.
Many people do that one as their first grade VI. It's long, but the
climbing is relatively easy, and it has good ledges. Long approach !
- Half Dome, Regular Route VI, 5.9, A1.
There are only two El Cap routes which can be done without a
portaledge. The Salathe has more scary free-climbing than the Nose.
- The Nose VI, 5.9, A2.
- The Salathe VI, 5.9, A2.
Glossary by Pat Mclaughlin
- aid, aid climbing - using gear to support your weight and/or make upward progress
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anchors, belay anchors - system used to secure you to the rock at the beginning/end of a pitch;may be composed of bolts or removable protection such as camming devices, nuts, etc.
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ascenders - mechanical devices used to ascend ropes
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back clean - process of reaching back to remove gear as you progress to the next placement
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belay - (verb) the act holding the rope while your partner climbs to protect them in case they fall. (noun) the belay anchors (see anchors).
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beta - information
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big bro - a spring-loaded tube which is used to protect wide cracks
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big wall - a climb so long it is generally climbed in more than one day
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bivy - bivouac;to sleep outdoors (no tent)
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bounce test - to use your weight to test the strength/integrity of a piece of protection before committing to it
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Camalot - a specific brand model of camming device
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camming device - a spring-loaded camming unit placed in varying sized crack to protect a climber in case of a fall
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carabiners - aluminum alloy ovals with a spring-loaded gate used for connecting gear/ropes/climbers
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chimney - (noun) a space between two walls big enough to fit your body and touch both sides. (verb) a climbing technique utilizing opposing force to ascend a chimney
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chock - any wedge-shaped device placed in the constrictions of a crack to use as protection
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etriers - nylon step ladders used for moving higher on an aid placement (also known as aiders)
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exposure - the state of being where, due to the sheerness of the rock, you feel your height from the ground to the fullest
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fix a pitch - to climb a section, secure the rope in place, and descend with the intention of returning to your high point by means of later ascending the rope
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fixed gear, fixed pin, fixed rope - gear left in place (either temporarily or permanently)
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free climbing - climbing using only your hands & feet (and other body parts) against the rock (ropes & other gear used only to protect in case of a fall)
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French free - the practice of pulling on gear (without using your etriers) to advance your progress; not considered valid free climbing, but acceptable as aid technique
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jug - to climb a rope using ascenders
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jumar - (noun) a brand of ascenders, but commonly used as a generic term for ascenders. (verb) to jug
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lead - to climb a section first, placing gear to protect you as you move upward
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nut - a tapered metal wedge with an attached wired which is placed in the constriction of a crack for protection
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off belay - the command used to tell your partner that you are safely anchored at the end of the pitch, and no longer need to be protected by them holding the rope;also, the state of not being protected by your partner with the rope.
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offsets - a nut with an uneven taper which allows them to fit nicely into many pin scars
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on belay - the command used to tell your partner that you are securely holding the rope to protect them as they climb;also,state of being protected by your partner with the rope.
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pendulum - a running swing taken by a climber after being lowered on the rope
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pig - nickname for the haulbag
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pin - piton
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pin scars - damage to the cracks caused by the placement and removal of pitons
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pitch - the distance covered by the leader before stopping and bringing up the follower; usually around 100-150 feet (standard climbing rope is 165 ft.)
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piton - a metal spike hammered into cracks in the rock for protection
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protection, pro - the generic term for any gear (i.e. - piton, nut, camming device, etc.) placed in the rock to stop a climber in the case of a fall.
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rap - to rappel
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rivets - a small metal screw hammered into a shallow hole drilled into the rock
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roof - an overhang or ceiling (really a misnomer to call it a roof)
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rope drag - resistance or pull caused by the rope going through protection in a zigzag (not in a straight line) fashion
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seconding - going second;following
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sharp end - the leader is said to be on the sharp end, because they are at a greater risk of injury in a fall than the follower
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simul-climb - both partners climb simultaneously once the leader reaches the end of the rope
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stem - to push against opposing or adjacent walls with your feet
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TCU - TriCam Unit. A model of camming device with three cams.
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tie in short - to tie a knot in the trailing end of the rope you are jugging and attach it to your harness to limit a potential fall should your ascenders somehow detach from the rope.
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topo - topographic map of the route.
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top stepping - in aid climbing, getting your feet into the highest (top) steps of your etriers to maximize your reach for the next placement (the optimal situation).
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tricams - a single cam with a point that is placed in cracks for protection