Remember that conditions can change.
1. Used to be a bolt ladder and fixed gear (no placement necessary)
with one reach move. In May 1999, Mark
Fletcher found that the A2 seam is no longer
entirely fixed. The first fixed head has a pulled cable with a 1/2 inch
webbing hitched around the swedge on the remaining cable. How long before
this webbing breaks or the remaining cable pulls is anybody's guess. Then
the seam opens up to allow a small Alien placement. Above the Alien
placement is another fixed head, but the cable pulled on me. A 1/2 inch
webbing piece is also attached to the second fixed head, which I was also
attached to, so I only fell less than an inch when the cable pulled. Above
the second fixed head, the seam is blank for 10 feet, with the exception of
some fixed heads completely missing cables. Parties will either need to
use pecker or birdbeak hooks to pass this or will need to refix the seam
with large and medium heads. You can also use a 10 foot cheater stick to
clip a sling between two bolts above the remaining A2 section. Two bolts
on the remaining bolt ladder above the A2 section are broken off and will
need thin rivit hangers or Fish doubloons.
2-3. (Combine pitches 2-3 on topo for 150' -- gains time and a nice stance).
Bolt/rivet ladder (more rivets than the previous pitch).
A couple of reachy moves + one hook and cam move to reach the old belay.
Rather difficult for fixed gear. Continue up 40' corner, with
easy aid + lots of fixed gear. 10/95: difficult reach move in corner,
from hook to reach bolt (bolt and head recently broken here).
4. Thin stoppers/TCU close to belay.
Bolt/rivet ladder + fixed gear, one hook move, a couple of
delicate free moves on slab at the end to reach TCU slot and bolt.
(Or possibly, hook broken bolt shaft, or maybe file it to make a notch
that might hold a rivet hanger?). Don't try to traverse directly to
Awahnee. Difficult to haul. 10/95: fixed line connects this belay
(Guano Ledge) to Awahnee.
5. Awkward traversing aid (mostly cams) + fixed gear.
6. Delicate (face with flat holds, essentially no protection)
free at the beginning, then bolt/rivet ladder (one reach move near end).
From the top of this pitch, you
can fix 140' to Guano (this avoids hauling through two traverses).
7. A long pitch, possibly the crux of the route. Small stoppers (smaller
than #1 Rock) or maybe RPs
in thin crack at end of pitch. Not as difficult as p3 or p4 (when done
without cheater stick, given existing fixed gear as of 10/95).
8-9. (combine, 150' -- gains time and a good ledge). Easy aid on slab.
Then very steep, mostly fixed (a couple of easy placements)
10. Easy aid and fixed gear. Difficult to haul. Large terrace to bivy
just under the top.
11. 4th class move and short traverse to reach summit arete.
You can avoid rope length problems on the final rap over the slab at the bottom. Use a double rope rappel at the rap that begins to drop your ropes over the slab, but instead of going down the slab, traverse left (right if you're facing up) at the top of the slab (dirty path) and down a chimney/groove at the edge of the slab. You'll then see slings on a tree in the groove/chimney. Easy double-rope rap to the ground from there.
Unless the first pitch becomes fixed again, add the following to the equipment list: Two pecker or birdbeak hooks (or) Large and medium heads and pasting equipment (Perferred if you know what you are doing.) (or) Long (10+ feet) cheater stick.
Remember that conditions can change.
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