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Yosemite Valley toprope beta by Clint Cummins
(clint@leland.Stanford.EDU)
1. Arch Rock
- final pitch of most routes, including Anticipation 5.11b,
Supplication 5.10c, New Dimensions 5.11a, etc.
Be careful on the sandy traverse ledge.
- Short Circuit 5.11d is nice, but sometimes you can't reach it
due to high water.
2. Cookie Cliff:
- chickenhead slab route 5.10d (right off the road, below Cookie Center)
- corner to right of it 5.11d (look out for poison oak)
- possible to toprope Butterfingers, but it takes awhile to scramble to the
top, and it helps a lot to have done the route before, to locate the
top anchors
- possible to toprope Crack-a-go-go 5.10d, after leading Hardd, and making a
5.8 traverse. (N.B. Rating is 5.11c to lead, but much easier to TR).
- possible to toprope Satanic Mechanic 5.12b after doing 2 pitches of
Outer Limits
- possible to toprope Aftershock 5.11b and Waverley Wafer 5.10c after
leading Bev's Tower 5.10a.
- possible to toprope Butterballs 5.11c after leading Wheat Thin 5.10b.
3. Knobby Wall (5.10b to 5.12)
4. Generator Crack 5.10 ow (and others in vicinity)
5. Five and Dime -- most routes on the L side of the cliff can be easily
toproped.
6. Little Wing -- can do 3rd class on L side to set up TRs, but be careful
scramling around up there.
7. Manure Pile Buttress -- (I think) first pitches of many routes can be
toproped, by scrambling around the left, or by leading an easy nearby
pitch.
8. Swan Slab area has many short TRs that can be setup by scrambling.
9. Lazy Bum 5.10d -- TR after leading Jamcrack Route 5.8.
10. Church Bowl -- many first pitches (5.8 to 5.10) can be TRed by leading
or soloing up Aunt Fannie's Pantry 5.4.
11. Royal Arches area
- TR Adrenaline 5.11b after leading first pitch of Serenity Crack 5.10a
- TR first pitch of Firefingers 5.10c after leading p1 of Maxine's Wall
5.10a
- Peruvian Flake can be TRed, although it takes a bit of scrambling to
reach the top.
12. Apron.
- Harry Daley, etc. can be TRed by first climbing up the right or left
side routes (5.0, or 5.1).
- Dr. Feel Good 5.10d, Apron Jam 5.9, and Green Dragon can be TRed by
leading or scrambling up a 3rd class corner to the left. You'd want
to do a rappel to use anchors atop Green Dragon to TR it.
- a 5.12 friction route just right of Green Dragon can be TRed by
leading a 5.7 route further right.
- Broken Circuit and Circuit Breaker can be TRed, but they are
fairly hard to find.
13. Chapel Wall
- lead Gold Dust 5.10b and TR New Wave 5.11d.
More advanced toproping "stunts" can be done. For example, I've led up
Sacherer Cracker/Slack Right and then rappelled down La Escuela, toproping
most of its pitches. Ditto for leading up Kor-Beck and rappelling/TRing
Space Babble.
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