The first important camp, where people gather at a same spot, is found at 11000. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3330.html North Face of Mont-Blanc and Dome du Gouter, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3532.html On the North face of Grande Casse, Vanoise, Alps, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3035.html Alpinists on the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3504.html Camping on the Balcony camp of the West Rib. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3367.html Party of three on the West Buttress. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3389.html The Bossons glacier, the highest icefall in the Alps. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3535.html Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3354.html Hiker in the Aiguilles Rouges and Mont-Blanc range, Alps, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3511.html Kahilna international airport lies under the North Face of Mt Hunter. Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3318.html Backcountry skiers dwarfed by Liskam, Switzerland. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3007.html Camp 11000 with a many skis. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3329.html Alpinists on a buttress of Aiguille du Midi climbing the Cosmiques ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3515.html The treacherous Denali Pass, scene of numerous accidents. The descending traverse is somewhat delicate for tired climbers. Moreover some take only ski poles and therefore cannot self-arrest. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3382.html Midnight sunset over Mt Foraker from the West Rib. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3370.html East Face of Mont-Blanc at dawn, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3102.html The ridge visible on the skyline is the West Rib, which was my planned itinerary. My companions had settled for the West Buttress, so I would do the second part of the climb solo. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3348.html South Side of the Argentiere basin with Chardonet Pass between Aiguille d'Argentiere and the Chardonet. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3154.html Seracs below Monte Rosa, Switzerland. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3004.html The base camp, at 7000 feet, is in the heart of a huge glacier system. Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3319.html Up to the 14300 camp again. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3337.html North Face of Mont-Blanc and Dome du Gouter. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3533.html Reaching the base camp right at sunrise, after 18 days. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3400.html Camping high on the West Rib route. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3374.html Bivy at the base of Dent du Geant, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3188.html Sun setting over Bionnassay ridge, just under the summit of Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3148.html The ranger tent. They perform rescues and operate a medical camp, but also give tickets for littering. The two lattrines help keep the snow good for drinking. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3346.html Aiguilles de Chamonix, Courtes-Verte ridge, and Grandes Jorasses seen from Aiguille du Midi. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3520.html Joan Phelps, a blind woman from Anchorage summited a few hours after me, guided by her twin sons Marty and Mike. The most remarkable ascent ofthis year. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3388.html The West Rib has 45 degrees inclination, with some steeper mixed parts. This means that unlike the West Buttress, it is a somewhat technical route, where you have to do some sort of climbing, and be careful not to fall. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3373.html Camp 11000 with a forest of wands. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3332.html Mount Maudit, Mont-Blanc du Tacul and Aiguille du Midi seen from summit of Mont-Blanc, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3105.html Alpinists on the Midi-Plan ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3505.html Waiting out in bad weather. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3343.html Climbing the South Face of Dent du Geant, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3189.html North side of the Courtes-Verte ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3156.html Being acclimatized thanks to my extended waiting at 14300ft, I skip the 16000 camp, which is occupied by a guided team comming from the bottom of the ridge. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3363.html My last vision of the mountain (through the East Fork of the Kahilna Glacier). Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3399.html Probing a circle for crevasses, before unroping. Alaskan glaciers are among the biggest in the world, and have very deep crevasses, which are difficult to spot. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3327.html Base of the Central Pilar of Freney, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3138.html Midnight alpenglow on Mt Hunter, seen from the 14300ft on Mc Kinley. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3350.html Alpinists go down Aiguille du Midi on a sharp ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3502.html Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3534.html North faces of Les Droites and Les Courtes, seen from the Argentiere Glacier. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3155.html The next day, unlike the other party which is making a round-a-trip summit day and leave their tent, I pack everything, since I plan to traverse the mountain and go down by the West Buttress. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3371.html Back to the 14300 camp, McKinley City. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3391.html Looking down at the Jaccoux-Domenech route, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3143.html Fresh snow and sea of clouds on 14300ft camp. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3345.html Alpinists on the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3503.html Snow camping on the Kahilna Glacier. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3321.html Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3516.html South side of the Courtes-Verte ridge seen from the Talefre Basin. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3152.html Across the gully, the last camp spot is visible. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3376.html Fresh snow on the 14300ft camp. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3344.html Traveling down with sleds. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3397.html Looking down from the Red Sentinel route, Mont-Blanc, Italy and France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3127.html The mighty West face of Mc Kinley. The West Buttress is the ridge on the left on the skyline, the Cassin the ridge on the right. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3325.html Alpinists on a pinacle of Aiguille du Midi after climbing the South Face. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3514.html Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3521.html The Balcony camp on the West Rib really deserves its name. Panoramic view over 180 degrees. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3365.html The day when we arrived, the weather was great, and there is a large numbers of climbers going for it. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3342.html To the 11000 camp, where I retrieved my gear. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3393.html Climbers on the rocky part of the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3119.html Our first carry day, up to the 14300 camp.. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3335.html Cosmiques ridge, Tacul and Mont-Blanc. Alps, France http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3531.html Climbers Frank and Alain start the Super-Couloir on Mt Blanc du Tacul, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3044.html The three tracks starting from the 14300 camp are very visible: to Windy Corner, the West Buttress, and the West Rib (although these were only my tracks). The 14300 camp would soon be in the shade. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3369.html I leave by myself the camp for a summit attempt, taking a cut-off to the West Rib. The West Buttress route goes to the pass, through the steep wall, and is quite crowded. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3351.html The deserted 11000 camp. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3394.html Vallot hut emergency shelter, Mont-Blanc, France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3108.html Camp on close to Kahilna Pass. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3328.html Being late on my schedule, due to the unexpected effect of altitude, I am lucky to find a ledge large enough for my Stephenson tent. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3372.html The low-profile tents have to be protected against the wind (which can reach 100mph). Climbers dig a hole and built thick snow-walls by sawing off large chunks of frozen snow. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3347.html Cornice on the Kuffner ridge of Mt Maudit, Italy and France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3114.html Our first carry day, back to 11000 camp. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3336.html The North Summit was reached by the Sourdough at the turn of the century in a one-day push, an incredible feat. Unfortunately for them, i t is slightly lower than the true (South) Summit. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3381.html This time, I had to painfully break the trail, which was swept by the recent storm. It is hard work when you are by yourself. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3362.html Eccles shelter at the base of the Freney Pillars, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3137.html Everything which is left is buried under the snow, to prevent the ravens from destroying your cache. They can rip open a backpack if you don't bury it deep enough. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3323.html Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3355.html The camp 17000 is quite exposed to the winds. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3384.html Remains of a tent which burned years ago from stove flare-up. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3366.html West face of Mont-Blanc photographed from a commercial airplane, Italy and France. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3140.html Exceptionnally warm conditions at Windy Corner. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3339.html The West Buttress is easy but very airy. You cannot travel it if there are high winds. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3390.html Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3353.html A view from the summit of Mt McKinley. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3380.html Serac system at the top of the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3122.html Taking a break from pulling the sled. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3326.html At the 16000 narrow camp on the Rib, there is just another party. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3352.html Traveling down with sleds. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3396.html Junction with the West Buttress route (see the numerous crampon marks) on the summit plateau. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3378.html Snow ridge on the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3120.html The temperatures during the day were pleasant, but within fifteen minutes after the sun has disappeared, they would drop down to subzero (F). This was a warm year, with minimum temperatures of -20F.. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3349.html Hauling heavy loads on the Kahilna Glacier, including mostly food and fuel for three weeks and polar-grade gear. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3320.html The camp 17000, the last camp on West Buttress. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3383.html Summit ridge of Mont-Blanc and Bosses ridge with climber's trail in the snow, France and Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3106.html Summit ridge of Mt McKinley. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3379.html The West Buttress route goes behind the ridge above the Kahilna pass. Totally invisible from the land, it has been discovered in the 50s by Bradford Washburn thanks to his large format aerial photographic surveys. This discovery would revolutionize Mt Mc Kinley climbing. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3324.html At begining June, there is no more night at these latitudes, just a very pure lingering light. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3398.html The main camp at 14300ft. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3341.html Sunset over Brouillard ridge, just under the summit of Mont-Blanc, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3147.html The next day, I would cross the gully and climb the ridge. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3375.html East Face of Mont-Blanc and Peuterey ridge, Italy. http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.alps3104.html To find your cache, you leave a wand, and you write your name on a sticker. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3395.html Above the 11000 camp, the route becomes steeper, making sleding or sking unpractical. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3331.html Windy Corner. There is a secondary summit which creates a funnel with the West Buttress, generating incredibly high winds there during storms.. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3338.html On the West Rib. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3364.html Yes, it all goes into a Lowe Cerro Torre II. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3386.html The route so far (outlined in red): the Kahilna glacier in front of Mt Foraker, Windy Corner, and the camp 14300 which is nested in a snow bowl. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3340.html Time to repack my summit gear. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3385.html Last technical steps on the West Rib route. Denali, Alaska http://www.terragalleria.com/mountain/mountain-image.mcki3377.html