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Permanent Snow

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The first important camp, where people gather at a same spot, is found at 11000. Denali, Alaska North Face of Mont-Blanc and Dome du Gouter, France. On the North face of Grande Casse, Vanoise, Alps, France. Alpinists on the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Alps, France Camping on the Balcony camp of the West Rib. Denali, Alaska Party of three on the West Buttress. Denali, Alaska The Bossons glacier, the highest icefall in the Alps. Alps, France Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska Hiker in the Aiguilles Rouges and Mont-Blanc range, Alps, France. Kahilna international airport lies under the North Face of Mt Hunter. Alaska Backcountry skiers dwarfed by Liskam, Switzerland. Camp 11000 with a many skis. Denali, Alaska Alpinists on a buttress of Aiguille du Midi climbing the Cosmiques ridge. Alps, France The treacherous Denali Pass, scene of numerous accidents. The descending traverse is somewhat delicate for tired climbers. Moreover some take only ski poles and therefore cannot self-arrest. Denali, Alaska Midnight sunset over Mt Foraker from the West Rib. Denali, Alaska East Face of Mont-Blanc at dawn, Italy. The ridge visible on the skyline is the West Rib, which was my planned itinerary. My companions had settled for the West Buttress, so I would do the second part of the climb solo. Denali, Alaska South Side of the Argentiere basin with Chardonet Pass between Aiguille d'Argentiere and the Chardonet. Alps, France Seracs below Monte Rosa, Switzerland. The base camp, at 7000 feet, is in the heart of a huge glacier system. Alaska Up to the 14300 camp again. Denali, Alaska North Face of Mont-Blanc and Dome du Gouter. Alps, France Reaching the base camp right at sunrise, after 18 days. Denali, Alaska Camping high on the West Rib route. Denali, Alaska Bivy at the base of Dent du Geant, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. Sun setting over Bionnassay ridge, just under the summit of Mont-Blanc, Italy. The ranger tent. They perform rescues and operate a medical camp, but also give tickets for littering. The two lattrines help keep the snow good for drinking. Denali, Alaska Aiguilles de Chamonix, Courtes-Verte ridge, and Grandes Jorasses seen from Aiguille du Midi. Alps, France Joan Phelps, a blind woman from Anchorage summited a few hours after me, guided by her twin sons Marty and Mike. The most remarkable ascent ofthis year. Denali, Alaska The West Rib has 45 degrees inclination, with some steeper mixed parts. This means that unlike the West Buttress, it is a somewhat technical route, where you have to do some sort of climbing, and be careful not to fall. Denali, Alaska Camp 11000 with a forest of wands. Denali, Alaska Mount Maudit, Mont-Blanc du Tacul and Aiguille du Midi seen from summit of Mont-Blanc, France. Alpinists on the Midi-Plan ridge. Alps, France Waiting out in bad weather. Denali, Alaska Climbing the South Face of Dent du Geant, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. North side of the Courtes-Verte ridge. Alps, France Being acclimatized thanks to my extended waiting at 14300ft, I skip the 16000 camp, which is occupied by a guided team comming from the bottom of the ridge. Denali, Alaska My last vision of the mountain (through the East Fork of the Kahilna Glacier). Denali, Alaska Probing a circle for crevasses, before unroping. Alaskan glaciers are among the biggest in the world, and have very deep crevasses, which are difficult to spot. Denali, Alaska Base of the Central Pilar of Freney, Mont-Blanc, Italy. Midnight alpenglow on Mt Hunter, seen from the 14300ft on Mc Kinley. Denali, Alaska Alpinists go down Aiguille du Midi on a sharp ridge. Alps, France Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. North faces of Les Droites and Les Courtes, seen from the Argentiere Glacier. Alps, France The next day, unlike the other party which is making a round-a-trip summit day and leave their tent, I pack everything, since I plan to traverse the mountain and go down by the West Buttress. Denali, Alaska Back to the 14300 camp, McKinley City. Denali, Alaska Looking down at the Jaccoux-Domenech route, Mont-Blanc, Italy. Fresh snow and sea of clouds on 14300ft camp. Denali, Alaska Alpinists on the Aiguille du Midi ridge. Alps, France Snow camping on the Kahilna Glacier. Denali, Alaska Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. South side of the Courtes-Verte ridge seen from the Talefre Basin. Alps, France Across the gully, the last camp spot is visible. Denali, Alaska Fresh snow on the 14300ft camp. Denali, Alaska Traveling down with sleds. Denali, Alaska Looking down from the Red Sentinel route, Mont-Blanc, Italy and France. The mighty West face of Mc Kinley. The West Buttress is the ridge on the left on the skyline, the Cassin the ridge on the right. Denali, Alaska Alpinists on a pinacle of Aiguille du Midi after climbing the South Face. Alps, France Alpinists climb Aiguille du Midi, France. The Balcony camp on the West Rib really deserves its name. Panoramic view over 180 degrees. Denali, Alaska The day when we arrived, the weather was great, and there is a large numbers of climbers going for it. Denali, Alaska To the 11000 camp, where I retrieved my gear. Denali, Alaska Climbers on the rocky part of the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. Our first carry day, up to the 14300 camp.. Denali, Alaska Cosmiques ridge, Tacul and Mont-Blanc. Alps, France Climbers Frank and Alain start the Super-Couloir on Mt Blanc du Tacul, Mont-Blanc Range, Alps, France. The three tracks starting from the 14300 camp are very visible: to Windy Corner, the West Buttress, and the West Rib (although these were only my tracks). The 14300 camp would soon be in the shade. Denali, Alaska I leave by myself the camp for a summit attempt, taking a cut-off to the West Rib. The West Buttress route goes to the pass, through the steep wall, and is quite crowded. Denali, Alaska The deserted 11000 camp. Denali, Alaska Vallot hut emergency shelter, Mont-Blanc, France. Camp on close to Kahilna Pass. Denali, Alaska Being late on my schedule, due to the unexpected effect of altitude, I am lucky to find a ledge large enough for my Stephenson tent. Denali, Alaska The low-profile tents have to be protected against the wind (which can reach 100mph). Climbers dig a hole and built thick snow-walls by sawing off large chunks of frozen snow. Denali, Alaska Cornice on the Kuffner ridge of Mt Maudit, Italy and France. Our first carry day, back to 11000 camp. Denali, Alaska The North Summit was reached by the Sourdough at the turn of the century in a one-day push, an incredible feat. Unfortunately for them, i t is slightly lower than the true (South) Summit. Denali, Alaska This time, I had to painfully break the trail, which was swept by the recent storm. It is hard work when you are by yourself. Denali, Alaska Eccles shelter at the base of the Freney Pillars, Mont-Blanc, Italy. Everything which is left is buried under the snow, to prevent the ravens from destroying your cache. They can rip open a backpack if you don't bury it deep enough. Denali, Alaska Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska The camp 17000 is quite exposed to the winds. Denali, Alaska Remains of a tent which burned years ago from stove flare-up. Denali, Alaska West face of Mont-Blanc photographed from a commercial airplane, Italy and France. Exceptionnally warm conditions at Windy Corner. Denali, Alaska The West Buttress is easy but very airy. You cannot travel it if there are high winds. Denali, Alaska Storm clouds approaching. Denali, Alaska A view from the summit of Mt McKinley. Denali, Alaska Serac system at the top of the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. Taking a break from pulling the sled. Denali, Alaska At the 16000 narrow camp on the Rib, there is just another party. Denali, Alaska Traveling down with sleds. Denali, Alaska Junction with the West Buttress route (see the numerous crampon marks) on the summit plateau. Denali, Alaska Snow ridge on the Brenva Spur, Mont-Blanc, Italy. The temperatures during the day were pleasant, but within fifteen minutes after the sun has disappeared, they would drop down to subzero (F). This was a warm year, with minimum temperatures of -20F.. Denali, Alaska Hauling heavy loads on the Kahilna Glacier, including mostly food and fuel for three weeks and polar-grade gear. Denali, Alaska The camp 17000, the last camp on West Buttress. Denali, Alaska Summit ridge of Mont-Blanc and Bosses ridge with climber's trail in the snow, France and Italy. Summit ridge of Mt McKinley. Denali, Alaska The West Buttress route goes behind the ridge above the Kahilna pass. Totally invisible from the land, it has been discovered in the 50s by Bradford Washburn thanks to his large format aerial photographic surveys. This discovery would revolutionize Mt Mc Kinley climbing. Denali, Alaska At begining June, there is no more night at these latitudes, just a very pure lingering light. Denali, Alaska

There are 100 pictures on this page out of 112 pictures of Permanent Snow, available as stock photos and fine art prints.

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